Spain is a treasure trove of surprises. The country has long had the biggest vineyard area in the world, but until this century Spain seemed to have little interest in its own wine history. Spain was Rioja, Sherry and Cava. End of story. Well, not end of story at all. Beginning of story, more like.
There has been an astonishing creative surge in Spanish cuisine – many food lovers now rate Spanish cuisine as the most enticing in all Europe. Along with that came an increasing awareness that while Spain had more vineyards than any other country we knew almost nothing about them. And if there was one particular treasure trove of undiscovered delights, of unique grape varieties, of ancient vineyards and a wine culture just bursting to take flight – it was in South East Spain, particularly in the wild, windswept mountains and valleys inland from Alicante and Murcia.
And the leading grape variety here is Monastrell. It’s really old. This variety was first mentioned almost 650 years ago and is probably a lot older than that because its name ‘Monastrell’ means that it was grown by the monks in their monastery vineyards where it’s likely they used it for all kinds of wines, light and heavy, sweet or dry.
This is the highly adaptable reputation that Monastrell is now regaining after a long period when it was primarily famous for impressive, deep-coloured, powerful reds. Of course, Monastrell can produce such wines with ease from its low-yielding, sun-swept ancient vines, but modern winemakers have found numerous other virtues in the variety.
Monastrell is proving to be especially suited to bright, fresh, juicy young reds and lively, tasty pinks. But it can produce sweet wines if asked, and in Alicante Monastrell even produces an ancient style of barrel-aged wine called Fondillon.
With climate change now taking centre stage, both in wine and politics, the search is on for grape varieties that can cope with the extra stress of increased heat and reduced moisture. Well, those of you who know Alicante and Murcia will recognize the formula – it’s hot and dry down there. Monastrell has been adapting to those conditions for over 600 years. And a combination of largely organic farming practices with a new wave of talented modern winemakers puts Monastrell in pole position to be one of the stars of Spain’s wine future.
Found in abundance in Southeastern Spain, wines made from Monastrell are a testament to the winemaking skill, complex terroir and, of course, glorious sun that defines this part of Spain, producing full-bodied, bold smoky red wines.
Monastrell is well-adapted to dry climates. The deep calcareous soils found across the different DOs – Alicante, Almansa, Bullas, Jumilla, and Yecla – are a perfect match for Monastrell vines. They encourage roots to penetrate deep into the earth, where there is a consistent, if relatively small water supply. While many varieties become too alcoholic or lose any elegance in sunny climes, the rich profile of typical Monastrell relies on extended, sun-kissed ripening.
Join Oz Clarke to discover Monastrell with him at the WineAlive Big Christmas Wine Festival in London on 21st & 22nd November 2025 as he explores the exquisite taste of this beloved variety.
