I can be a real curmudgeon when the darker, colder evenings draw in. I traipse out with the dog at 4pm instead of summer’s 7pm, kicking the fallen leaves around sulkily as twilight descends too early. But there’s one aspect to the autumn nights that I find really cheering: new season food is here and with it, exciting new wines to match.

Making slow-braised casseroles and tagines, spicy Indian meat curries, roasted root vegetables and more does feel satisfying. Especially so when I know I’ve got a decent red to partner them (and this sort of cooking almost always demands a red).

Here are three that I’m cracking open to match my autumn kitchen this month:

Robert Oatley Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Margaret River, Australia

14%, Majestic Wine, £14.99 or £12.99 as part of mixed six bottles

I love the Oatley wines from Western Australia, which consistently display ripe fruit but with a fine-tuned balance. This is aromatic and intense – full of cassis and plum with a sprinkling of wood spices. One for roast leg of lamb or a lamb rogan josh.

Babylonstoren Babel Red Blend 2022, Simonsig-Paarl, South Africa

14%, waitrose.com, £17.49 or 25% off 6 Bottles Or More Priced £6 Or Over

A firm favourite this autumn, and, amazingly, a blend of seven grape varieties, though Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon hold sway. It’s complex with mulberry and damson fruit, a little dark chocolate and spice, and beautifully rounded texture. Very well-priced, it’s a star with a peppered steak (I’ve enjoyed it with rare venison steak too) or a spicy bean chilli.

Domaine Maby ‘Nessun Dorma’ Lirac 2021, Rhône, France

14%, wickhamwine.co.uk, £26.50 or £23.85 as part of mixed six bottles

Lirac, a Rhône appellation close to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, often offers exceptional value for its fine reds. Here’s an oak-aged blend of Grenache and Syrah from opera-loving maker Richard Maby which has a rich heart of blackberries and cassis, a savoury seam and peppery twist to the finish. A serious treat with a long-braised beef stew.